Ethical & Lab-Grown Rings

Root Cause

Poorly crafted or weak prongs; insufficient seat cut for the stone; rushed setting labor.

What to Specify / Ask Supplier

Specify minimum prong thickness and require 4-6 prongs for center stones. Ask for their setting QC process (e.g., microscopic inspection).

QC Check (What "Good" Looks Like)

Gently push the stone from different angles with a non-metal tool (e.g., toothpick). It must not move or make a clicking sound. Prongs should be smooth and fully cover the stone's edge.

Root Cause

Plating thickness is too low (<0.5 micron); poor surface preparation before plating; no protective rhodium layer over silver.

What to Specify / Ask Supplier

Specify minimum plating thickness (e.g., 1.0 micron for gold over silver) and require a final rhodium plating for all silver items.

QC Check (What "Good" Looks Like)

Visually inspect for even color and luster. Perform an adhesion/abrasion test on a sacrificial sample to check durability.

Root Cause

Supplier substitutes a lower-grade stone (e.g., lower clarity/color) or a different material (e.g., CZ for moissanite) to cut costs.

What to Specify / Ask Supplier

For diamonds, require IGI/GIA certification with matching laser inscription. For moissanite, specify D-color VVS1 and require testing verification.

QC Check (What "Good" Looks Like)

Use a diamond/moissanite tester. For diamonds, use a 10x loupe to verify the laser inscription on the girdle matches the certificate number.

Root Cause

Base metal is brass or a nickel alloy instead of the specified solid 925 sterling silver or gold.

What to Specify / Ask Supplier

Require material declaration and specify 'solid 925 sterling silver' or 'solid 14K gold'. Require a '925' or '14K' stamp on every piece.

QC Check (What "Good" Looks Like)

Check for the correct quality stamp ('925', '10K', '14K'). Use an XRF gun on a sample for definitive material verification.

Root Cause

Inconsistent use of ring mandrels; lack of calibration; high manufacturing tolerances.

What to Specify / Ask Supplier

Specify US sizing standard and require calibration checks. Provide a master set of sizing rings for reference. Define acceptable tolerance (e.g., +/- 0.1mm inner diameter).

QC Check (What "Good" Looks Like)

Measure a sample from each size in the batch against a calibrated ring mandrel. The ring should fit snugly on the corresponding size mark.

Root Cause

Band width or thickness is too low (e.g., <1.6mm); poor quality metal alloy.

What to Specify / Ask Supplier

Specify minimum band width and thickness (e.g., '1.8mm width, 1.6mm thickness'). Provide a physical sample as a quality benchmark.

QC Check (What "Good" Looks Like)

Use digital calipers to measure the band at several points to ensure it meets the minimum specification. It should feel solid and not easily bendable by hand.

Root Cause

Incomplete polishing process; poor casting quality leading to porous metal; improper handling.

What to Specify / Ask Supplier

Specify 'high polish' finish and provide visual examples of acceptable quality. Ask about their casting and polishing procedures.

QC Check (What "Good" Looks Like)

Inspect the ring under bright, direct light from all angles. The surface should be smooth and reflective like a mirror, with no visible pits, pores, or deep scratches.